The protagonist, alongside Milan, of the 2026 Olympics, Cortina is also the heart of the volume "The Queen of the Dolomites. Living in Cortina d'Ampezzo", published by Marsilio Arte and edited by Servane Giol: a journey of discovery, exploring the homes of Ampezzo and various local settings.
The history of Cortina is full of charm and has also been written by famous architects and great names in international culture. Servane Giol’s book The Queen of the Dolomites. Living in Cortina d’Ampezzo describes daily life in Ampezzo, guiding the reader through an exploration of homes and local events in the summer and winter seasons. The story is completed by the photographs of Mattia Aquila. We interviewed the author.
What are the intentions of the volume and what should the reader expect?
The intentions of the volume are to reveal the interiors of a Cortina d’Ampezzo too often compared to films, first and foremost Vacanze di Natale, which suggest a certain idea of holiday life in a hotel, while, beginning in the 1950s, many people who love the ski resort have chosen the home option rather than the hotel one. I knew I would find interiors rich in variety, given the diverse origins of the people who own a home in the valley. In addition, I was looking for historical traces, a sort of common thread that could define the Cortina style beyond its most famous architects, Vietti and Gellner.
I found this common thread in the history of Cortina, in its Tyrolean past and in its Venetian present. Decorative traces of both of these styles can be found in every home.
The story, told in words and images, follows the rhythm of the seasons, divided between winter and summer. How would you describe, in brief, the way Cortina feels in summer and winter?
One big surprise for me was discovering that, in films about Cortina, winter is always the setting for comedy, with major romantic intrigues, and summer, on the other hand, is the backdrop for dramatic expeditions to the mountains, romantic dramas, etc.
For me though, summer is the happiest season in Cortina: the houses decorated with flowers, the traditional Ampezzo or Tyrolean costumes, the raspberry cakes, the whole city takes on a very happy and authentic feel. Winter has a more homely atmosphere, made of warm fabrics and furs. For sports enthusiasts, it is pure adrenaline, with the spectacular snow-capped mountains of Cortina as the protagonists.
The photographs, by Mattia Aquila, that enrich the volume focus particularly on Cortina’s residential architecture, allowing the gaze to discover spectacular homes. What does it mean to live your daily life in Cortina?
Daily life in Cortina is certainly tied to the weather and the seasons, less so for food than in the past, but much more so for tourism reasons. For example, the absence of snow can completely change a winter season. Conversely, intense heat can cause many people to come to Cortina in the summer seeking the cool of the mountains. Therefore, daily life involves knowing how to deal with times when there’s no one, or when it’s super crowded, and adapting. All to avoid traffic and queues.
Life at home in the winter, while perhaps no longer entirely in the Stube, is certainly centred around the fireplace and other sources of heat such as stoves.
Many intellectuals have fallen under Cortina’s spell, finding there the ideal place to stay. Can you tell us some anecdotes about it?
Perhaps the most famous intellectual, or at least the one who left his mark on the dreams of a dolce vita that is still relevant, was Ernest Hemingway. He stayed in Cortina several times, in summer and winter, first in a hotel, then at Villa Aprile. There are many stories about the parties at Hotel Posta, where among other things he met his translator, Fernanda Pivano, who remained his faithful friend throughout his life.
Cortina’s fame is inextricably linked to the 1956 Olympic Games. What is your wish for the “Queen of the Dolomites” in view of the 2026 Winter Olympics?
I believe that they will absolutely not have the same scope as the first Olympics in 1956, there will be many fewer competitions taking place in the valley. The competitions will be spread between Venice and Milan, which did not happen in 1956. I hope that these games will help find a solution to the major issues of traffic and parking, which are increasingly congested. A problem that can no longer be pushed back.
Interview by Arianna Testino
BIO
Servane Giol, French by birth and Venetian by adoption, has worked in publishing for years, collaborating with, among others, Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue Germany. She is the cultural director of the Alliance française in Venice. She published Soul of Venice (Versailles, 2014), which won the silver medal at the Independent Publishers Award in 2021. For Marsilio Arte she published Un invito a Venezia (Venice, 2022).
Image captions:
Artist Alice Mocellin creates an oxidised iron wall sculpture entitled Bosco for her home. © Credit: Mattia Aquila
The typical Ampezzo house façade, half masonry and half wood. © Credit: Mattia Aquila
Architects Gris Dainese reinterpret iron in a modern way in this attic apartment in Crignes. © Credit: Mattia Aquila
Ernest Hemingway’s room at the Hotel de la Poste. In addition to the original furnishings, some of the writer’s personal items are still preserved, including his typewriter and a photo of him with a dedication. © Credit: Mattia Aquila
A corner of the living room in a house in Chiave. © Credit: Mattia Aquila
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